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Sevilla Travel Guide


Triana

Some believe that the name of this neighbourhood comes from "tri" (three) and "ana" (rivers) since three rivers meet at this location. Others contend that the name comes from "Trajan", because it was founded by Trajan, the Roman emperor. It is the birthplace of bullfighters, folklore singers and historic personalities such as Rodrigo de Triana, companion of Colón in the discovery of America. Triana has always been a sea-going neighbourhood and survived from this occupation all on through the 20th century. Travellers of the Romantic period were captivated by the area's patios and its inhabitants, including the large number of gypsies who lived there. In 1852 the Triana bridge was built, becoming the emblem and pride of the neighbourhood.

In the other side of the San Telmo bridge, the traveller arrives at Betis Street, splendid decorative backdrop of the old Arrabal (slums) with facades painted in lively colors. It preserves the walls and high defensive parapets of the 19th century and a large number of bars and taverns which make Betis a lively area. Along Duarte Street, which stands next to the Casa de las Columnas (The House of the Columns), the traveller arrives at the Parish Church of Santa Ana, Gothic temple which was the Cathedral of the Arrabal until the 19th century. Begun by Alfonso X el Sabio (Alfonso X the Wise), it was finished in the 14th century. The church's interior is a mixture of splendor and sobriety unusual in Seville. Its main altarpiece and the Renaissance and Baroque tile work and bars deserve a special mention. In addition, it possesses a beautiful collection of processional 18th century silver work, used during the area's most popular festival, the "Corpus Chico" (Small Corpus). Continuing along Pureza Street, which preserves the charm of old Triana, the traveller arrives at the Chapel of the Marineros (Sailors), site of the virgin Esperanza de Triana, one of the most cherished images of the people of Seville.

Pureza Street leads into Altozano, an area which was developed in the 19th century after the demolition of San Jorge castle. The saint's remains are preserved nearby in the Small Chapel of Carmen. Altozano marks the starting point of San Jacinto Street, full of shops and people, the neighborhood's main thoroughfare. Alfarería Street preserves a large number of shops and potter's workshops which produce the traditional style of Triana ceramics. From here, along San Jorge, the traveller arrives at the beginning of Castilla Street and the infamous alley of the Inquisition, today lined with houses and patios brimming with flowers. The Parish Church of O, a 17th century building including a tower decorated with Triana tile work, presides over all the activity. Taking Castilla Street, the traveller arrives at the Chapel of Cristo de la Expiración, church which contains the Cristo del Cachorro, masterpiece of Francisco Ruiz Gijón. The sculpture was inspired by the agony of a dying gypsy named 'Cachorro', lending to the work its popular name. Behind the chapel and next to the World Trade Centre is the entryway to the buildings of the Cartuja de Santa María de las Cuevas (Charterhouse of Santa María de las Cuevas). We recommend catching the C-1 bus at the stop opposite the Puerta Triana to explore the entire river bank with its view of the bridges built for Expo '92.

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